Bocas Del Toro, Panama
We are leaving this Saturday (August 15) to explore the islands in Bocas del Toro archipelago. There are eight major islands, 51 cays and over 200 minor islets. Till now, since arriving from Jamaica, we haven’t moved from this marina on Carenero Island. Being at dock means upkeep and repairs and we are putting the final touches to Nikan. J-P installed the two sliding hatches we brought with us from Quebec to the dodger, which will make our cockpit breezy and fresh in this tropical hot and humid climate. We already notice the difference, although it’s open-close-open… as the rain comes and goes. It’s a rainy season now, although we are told rains were six weeks late this year and while we were in Quebec, there was rationing of water, it even went so far as no shower. Now it rains almost every day, sometime with violent storms, I still have laundry to do but am not afraid for lack of water. There are no rivers on this island and all the water the habitants use here comes from rain. We are looking forward to be at anchor again, to swim, snorkel and fish. All this is not possible right here, the water around marina, as the village itself, is quite dirty. We are going to miss the daily access of Internet and the library, although the owner of this marina doesn’t like women’s books or movies, so mostly I had to settle for murder, espionage, action. Right now we are here three boats from Canada, few from Argentina, rest is from USA. There is another marina on Colon Island and many other boats at anchor. I am sure we will cross some of these people again, everybody is heading more or less in the same direction.
We are leaving this Saturday (August 15) to explore the islands in Bocas del Toro archipelago. There are eight major islands, 51 cays and over 200 minor islets. Till now, since arriving from Jamaica, we haven’t moved from this marina on Carenero Island. Being at dock means upkeep and repairs and we are putting the final touches to Nikan. J-P installed the two sliding hatches we brought with us from Quebec to the dodger, which will make our cockpit breezy and fresh in this tropical hot and humid climate. We already notice the difference, although it’s open-close-open… as the rain comes and goes. It’s a rainy season now, although we are told rains were six weeks late this year and while we were in Quebec, there was rationing of water, it even went so far as no shower. Now it rains almost every day, sometime with violent storms, I still have laundry to do but am not afraid for lack of water. There are no rivers on this island and all the water the habitants use here comes from rain. We are looking forward to be at anchor again, to swim, snorkel and fish. All this is not possible right here, the water around marina, as the village itself, is quite dirty. We are going to miss the daily access of Internet and the library, although the owner of this marina doesn’t like women’s books or movies, so mostly I had to settle for murder, espionage, action. Right now we are here three boats from Canada, few from Argentina, rest is from USA. There is another marina on Colon Island and many other boats at anchor. I am sure we will cross some of these people again, everybody is heading more or less in the same direction.
ina in Puerto Vita – amazingly they let us do that without any charge, while we are using their facilities, like cold shower and toilet without any toilet paper (like everywhere else in Cuba, even with their good education, sanitary conditions are deplorable). There is no other boat here, except the catamarans that take tourists from nearly hotels for a cruise each day. There is a restaurant here as well, the village itself, with a population of about 500 has one questionable bar and one store for locals with empty shelves, Cubans are not allowed to the marina at all. When we arrived here there was an Australian couple, their sailboat packed with all kinds of items, like 50 pairs of shoes, reading glasses, clothing, dishes. They have been to Cuba before and came prepared, unlike us! The eye of the hurricane passed through this area last summer, taking off with some roofs, walls and destroying the crop - this is a very poor village (except for the few lucky ones with relatives abroad) - but entrepreneur spirit prevails with some, and we get invitations for meals, in exchange of money, clothing or whatever. We are happy to help – these people are no beggars, insisting on giving something back, be it some vegetable from their garden, artisana, or some service. My listening to Spanish on tapes pays off, and I can communicate quite well. The average salary here is between 10-20 CUCs (1 CUC = $1.39 Canadian!!), a typical meal for a tourist can be found for 6-15 CUCs. All the essentials for a decent living can only be bought in CUCs and for western price (things like detergent soap, shampoo, sanitary napkins – no CUCs, you have to use rags, and wash them by hand! not too many washing machines in these houses). They get some rations from the government, like 5 eggs a month per person, 40 g of beans, or 1 toothpaste per family!, their typical ration lasts for about two weeks, so there is a lot going on to survive, we can’t imagine what, or how - but smile is always there and good humor as well. At least they are not starving here, we see some vegetable and fruit trees in their gardens, as well as chickens, pigs, goats, sheep roaming around. Horses are still used for transportation in the country and I am admiring how magnificent the riders look on their beast. The countryside is stunning. We already visited Holguin, fourth-largest city in Cuba, full of diesel fume and in need of restoration. Sico could literally sell thousands gallons of paint, although the fading and pealing paint has its charm. We are planning to visit some other places once I am back, and if we ever get on Internet in Cuba, will keep you posted!
